Pigeon Point Lighthouse is one of the several state parks that frame the town. Photo by Dannah Nielsen


PESCADERO, CA (MPG) – Lounging out by the pool at Venture Retreat Center, we were the only two souls in this forest canyon at the moment. The topic being discussed was ‘childlike wonder,’ and how difficult it seems to shift our mindset back to this type of innocence. We all long for it, knowing that it was when we could find excitement and appreciation in almost anything.

“This place is a summer camp, but for adults too. It’s beckoning us. I mean, look around,” I said sweeping my arm out as I balanced my cheese from Harley Goat Dairy on my torn piece of sourdough from Arcangeli’s Grocery. “A child would find endless joy in exploring here.”

It’s true. At Venture Retreat Center, there are no expectations, no rules posted, (save for don’t pee in the pool), or any sense of urgency. We continued to snack on our recently acquired local bounty and took in the view. This retreat is found in coastal Pescadero, so the ocean fog neatly settles into the canyon here. Butano Creek hugs the property and together with the rustling redwoods, offers nature’s version of a sound bath. But with a little more focus, you can spot the small nuances, the ones you remember so clearly in your childhood memories. Flowers of every kind, in every stage of blooming or wilting. Windchimes, many handmade. Mosaic stepping stones with so much detail you could play a long and wild game of I-spy. Twinkling string lights, garden charms, tent castles, outdoor heated showers, and weathered chairs surround fire pits. One could be entertained for days, if only you agreed to a detox of your nervous system.

Pescadero, California. A town of 600 that has successfully eluded the World Wide Web of progress in the name of progress. Most of the businesses here continue to thrive, several decades of humbly serving their neighbors and visitors.

It’s easy to have a perfect getaway here, without needing to stray any further than the state parks that frame the town. After settling into Venture Retreat Center we headed first to Harley Farms, an internationally recognized goat dairy that makes small batch cheeses they sell in their farm shop along with other farm-made products. If you have time, the tours are worth signing up for. A big draw has always been its simplicity. Harley Farms is no massive production. The barns, the gardens and layout are relatively small but it’s the traditional 1910 dairy vibe charm you don’t realize you were pining for until you are out here assessing the herd. Pro tip: buy ALL the cheese, because the next stop is the aforementioned Arcangeli’s Grocery.

Another small, family-operated and deeply rooted Pescadero staple is Arcangeli’s. Any well- traveled roadtripper should know that a small town’s grocery usually has some killer housemade specialties, and this one takes top honors not just in their sauces, and sourdoughs, but especially their deli sandwiches. The best grilled cheese of my life happened here in November of 2010. It was, like a Taylor Swift concert, life-changing.

Having stocked up on sourdough and dusting off the pesto turkey sandwich indulgence that somehow magically fed my soul, we wandered over to the line up of sheds-turned-shops; craft booths meant to complement the weekly popular farmer’s market but still open for business in between. We cruised the locally sourced teas and T-shirts of SlowCoast listening as the owner, Libby, invited banter with the trickle of customers.

“I want to sell driftwood art at the farmer’s market,” one brought to Libby’s attention. Don’t we all? I mused to myself as I settled on an herbal tea blend that promised to restore my youth.

We continued on with our stroll down this Main Street- also a promising blend of eclectic shops, historic buildings, and highly rated restaurants (p.s. you will be graded as a “fail” if you miss out on the artichoke soup at Duarte’s). Pro Tip: Don’t let the gas station Taqueria de Amigos throw you off, it’s the best authentic Mexican food on the entire San Mateo Coastline.

The following day was spent exploring all four of the surrounding State Parks: Butano (conveniently next door to Venture Retreat Center), Ano Nuevo, the Pescadero Marsh and Pigeon Point Lighthouse. Butano State Park was badly burned in the recent 2020 CZU fire, however several trails and also the creek that runs through it are still thriving. The good news is that many adventurers are unaware and so you’ll likely have much of this redwood forest to yourself.

Ano Nuevo State Park is far more popular with its Elephant Seal population that uses the beaches here to migrate and mate, and there are always docents on hand to give you a refresher on that wildlife biology lesson you forgot. The museum and shop is also a fantastic representation of what our parks can offer.

Pigeon Point Lighthouse has intermittent hours and docents/tours/events, and operates as a hostel as well, but the big draw for us is to check off our bucket list of visiting every lighthouse in the state. Even though we arrived for the sunset and it was closed, we still spent time photographing it from every angle like the model she is.

Finally, the Pescadero Marsh is a self-guided experience. Trails and walking bridges curve around this massive habitat that drains into the nearby ocean. Of course, we came for the wildlife and ecosystems but one unique touch for the senses is the deafening, weighted silence that is actually the sound of crashing waves. Your ears play tricks on you, leading you to believe you’re a hundred miles away from civilization even though your eyes catch sight of the Highway 1 commuter in the distance. Don’t miss this trek, the birds are expecting you.

A few final notes for planning your trip to Pescadero: while Venture Retreat Center has a communal kitchen area to prepare whatever sourdoughs and cheeses you bring back, I highly recommend pulling into Downtown Local for your morning coffee and pastry. This coffee stop is by far the most interesting mix of vintage, retro quirky toys and relics with outstanding coffee drinks. Also, the beaches are plentiful and quiet around here but one that stands out as picture-perfect is the southern end of Bean Hollow State Beach. People who are this far in to rugged highway coastline aren’t really making the drive for just for a beach day, so you’ll likely have the entire cove to yourself.

As self-proclaimed lifelong adventure seekers, we remain committed to the cause of experiencing unique lodging and this was our first time at a “hipcamp” style destination, although Venture Retreat Center is so much more than that. Hipcamps have become synonymous with off-the-map, rugged, minimalistic amenities, offering more outdoor luxuries like towering trees, creeks, and stargazing. Venture Retreat Center has this connection, but has also been thoughtfully designed to welcome groups celebrating reunions, weddings, workshops, etc. Come alone, stay with a friend, bring your family or retreat with the whole company.

We contemplated it all as we soaked in the hot tub late one night- childlike wonder restored.

To book your stay, visit www.ventureretreat.org. To explore Pescadero, make the drive! There is no official website. To find more California fun, follow @ca.love.fornia on Instagram.